Gearbox overhaul

Nobby, the 1985 VS is developing a nasty crunch when selecting third, either up or down the gearbox. Changing the gearbox oil has revealed a metallic paste on the magnetic plug, and the oil has only done a couple of thousand miles since the last change. Obviously the synchro is on the way out. So, my question is, how difficult is it to strip and overhaul the gearbox? Is the Haynes manual accurate, or are there any missing steps in the strip and rebuild procedure. If I decide to go ahead, I won't know until I strip it which bits I need, and are there spares out there? Any input or advice would be very gratefully received!

Hi Peter,

Don't threat it's an easy job...I did a rebuild myself a while back. I completely stripped the gear box and replaced various worn gears, bearings and seals etc...
This gear box was in a grubby state it needed a good clean before dismantling.

Removal of 5th gear is the first thing to do obviously.

Remove the indent balls it's a must keep these safe or replace with new.

Remove the casing from the bell housing. the reverse gear shaft was the first to come out.

It looks a mess at this stage, I inspected the gears and found the reverse gear completely worn and 1st and 3rd gear needed replacing.


These are just a few pictures taken throughout the rebuild, I took quite a lot which helped with putting everything back together. Make sure you keep everything clean and in order. You can buy new gears and bits etc...try Eurosport uk. I did use the manual through out but my pictures helped me more. I just had one rule if it's worn replace it with new. I also filled the gear box with MT90 gear oil.

I loved every minute of this build it was very therapeutic the gear box is now installed and working after final adjustments.

Hello David,

Thank you very much for your input, it is very welcome! I have never stripped a gearbox before, and your comments are very reassuring. I am an aircraft engineer by trade, but obviously aircraft don't have gearoxes like this! I am going to get the box out of the car before the winter lay-off and strip it from there. This gives me the whole of the winter to hopefully source any bits I need.I am also hoping to get the engine out, but with restricted garage space I'm not sure I will manage to lift the car over the engine. But dropping the box out will be the first thing to tackle.
Lets hope the gearbox is ok for what's left of the summer up here. I can always drive it not using third!
Thanks again for the pictures, and I will keep the club up to date with any progress once I start.

Hi Peter

I wish you luck!! once I got the engine and gear box in and all the coolant pipes connected and managed to get the engine running it sprung a leak. In the worst place ever!! from the metal plate on the side of the gear box bell housing. My heart sunk...obviously it needed fixing, the only way to get a 5 speed gear box out is to lift the car and support it with jack stands. I set the crane back up detached everything and lowered the engine back down on to my dolly trolley, Then removed the gear box to fix the leak.

You will need to try and raise the chassis as high as you can. As you can see I also have limited space, I did everything to this car in this garage, and I mean everything.

If you look closely in this picture you can see the jack stands. or 1 at least!!


If you need any advise please ask always happy to help.

Dave

Reading about experiences over on the xweb forum they recommend you replace the crankshaft oil seal when you have the box out and the release bearing. There are some comments about poor quality non OEM synchro rings but I think you would be fine if buying from Eurosport...

You make a good point there, fortunately I also rebuilt my engine so my Crankshaft seal is new, again purchased from Eurosport UK.
This was the state of the engine I removed oh dear!!!


It took a lot of work to get to this state.

Wow impressive picture! It makes my garage look like the Albert Hall! So I really have no excuses about dropping the engine and gearbox provided I can source a lift for the car. I was simply thinking of trying to use the roof trusses for a lifting point but common sense dictates that's not a good idea with an old wooden garage. I was planning to drop the gearbox out of the car after supporting the engine on blocks and removing the rear nearside strut and suspension arms. My mate did this when dropping the box out to replace the crankshaft seal a while ago. I was working away at the time so didn't actually see what was involved but I'll enlist his help again once i get started. I must see if I can get hols of a lift such as yours and make things a lot easier for myself.

You can lift the engine and gearbox out the top. You'll need a balance bar to get the correct angle on the engine/gearbox . A helper is needed and requires more patience, but much safer and less awkward.

That's interesting, and maybe the way ahead. I still need to find a lift for the engine and gearbox. I'll have plenty of time to do that, I'm not planning to start the job until October.
Thanks for your reply, all suggestions are very welcome!

really??? can the engine & gearbox unit be refitted from the top, I've to put mine back in and I like the sound of what you have done, can you give me more detail on that please if that's ok, I will buy a balance bar but anything in particular I need to know to assist in dropping complete powertrain in?? e.g. points to locate chains/rope on engine/gearbox? angle of unit..I assume gearbox end down first?

Stuart

After the NEC show I've got to take my engine out and so could post some pics. The basics are that you sling the engine from the normal points, this will make it gearbox end heavy, hence the need for the balance bar. The angle needs to be quite sharp at times during the lift but straight forward enough. Obviously make sure you have enough lift on your crane. Two people are always useful whether going in from the top or bottom (to be said in a Frankie Howard voice). Easier if you leave the starter motor off until the engine is bolted in.
With the engine suspended you just roll the crane back or car forward. Removing downwards means lowering the engine to the ground and then being able to lift the body up high enough so as you can wrestle the engine out from under the suspended body. Even if the engine is on some sort of trolley it's still a bit dodgy with most home mechanics kit. The dealers would have had a proper four post hoist which would be the best solution

That makes sense, and yes, a couple of pics would be brill, just to get an idea. I don't fancy putting mine back in from the bottom, as you say.. a bit dodgy with the home mechanic kit I have. Thanks Speedy

In my 30s, I simply jacked my X1/9 up on the left side, unbolted the gearbox and lifted it off by hand, while lying on the ground. Put it back on the same way.
It's heavy but relatively light, as far as gearboxes go. And the driveshafts unbolt without needing to drain the oil, although you will be draining it anyway if rebuilding the box.